Here are some great tips for puppy ownership that will serve you well. Some of these can be used into adulthood.

The first thing that we strongly suggest is that you invest in a dog crate.

Your puppy will encounter daily stressors from training exercises and just day to day activities. Most of wich is just fine. The crate is the one place your puppy can go and completely relax.

The crate has three walls and a roof and your pup knows he is completely safe and all those day to day stressors can quickly dissipate.

Think about it from your dog’s point of view. Have you ever had company over and it got a little loud and you find your dog relaxing in the closet or under the table, mybe behind the sofa. They are simply following a deep-seated den instinct.

Canines are den animals. They need a special place that represents safety. Crates provide the security of a den for your dog or puppy when you are absent and reduces the possibility of destructive and possibly dangerous habits from developing. If you are a parent and you have a toddler, and you don’t want her to stick the fork in the light socket you know you have to lock up the silverware and put covers over the sockets. You have given your child no other choice but to stay safe. Crate training is especially recommended for young puppies. You will be more relaxed and happy with your pup if you know he can’t destroy things while you are gone. Crating your puppy will prevent him from chewing on electrical cords, eating household poisons, or swallowing harmful objects in your absence. Crates allow the pup to be confined in your bedroom with you and not isolated in the kitchen or garage, resulting in better bonding and less crying during the night. Crates are also extremely useful while housetraining. Pups will instinctively try not to soil their own sleeping area, and you are right there if the puppy needs to relieve himself. When you need a rest from the puppy, you can use the crate as a playpen. Crates are not jail for a dog - that is a human perception. Puppies and older dogs will happily accept a crate if YOU do, and if you work slowly to introduce the crate. Your attitude affects how the dog feels about it, so make sure it is a positive one. Crates should always represent a safe haven for your dog and should NEVER be used to discipline your dog or puppy. Although the initial cost of a crate may seem high, when compared to the costs of repairing or replacing damaged furniture or rugs, a trip to the emergency vet, or the heartache of having to surrender a pet that has developed destructive habits, it is an excellent investment. Buy a crate that is big enough for your puppy to stand up, sit and turn around comfortably when he is full grown. If it is too big for your new puppy, you can section off one end of the crate with a metal divider or cardboard boxes. This prevents him for eliminating at one end and sleeping at the other, defeating the purpose of the crate as a housetraining tool. Wire crates should be covered on the top and sides so that they are cozier and to protect the dog from drafts. 

 Introducing Your Dog To The Crate Expect to give your dog one or two weeks to become accustomed to the crate. You should keep the crate with you, in the room you are in, while teaching your dog to enter his crate on command. The crate can be moved to the bedroom as a sleeping area at night when he is comfortable with it. Assemble the crate out of sight of your dog, and leave the door off, or tie it open for the first few days. On the first day, throw a goodie into the crate every 10 to 15 minutes. Let the dog find the goodie (draw his attention to it if he doesn’t notice.) Praise enthusiastically when your dog goes in the crate to get the goodie and ignore him when he leaves. Remove the top of the crate if the dog is still hesitant to enter the crate. When your dog starts to check the crate for goodies or begins to enter the crate on his own, hold a treat in one hand, give a command (we suggest “Kennel or “Go To Bed”) and throw the treat in the back. If he runs in, praise him and let him leave. Do this several times during the next few hours. The next step is to get your dog into the crate and hold on to the treat. Give your command, and if your dog goes into the crate, give him the treat, praise and say, “Okay” to release him when he leaves. During the next few days, give your dog attention only when he enters the crate. Ignore him otherwise. He should enter the crate without hesitation before you move to the next step. If you have removed the top and/or door to the crate, put them on again.

 Give the command for the dog to go into his crate, give him a goodie, and close the door briefly while praising him. Open the door and give your release command, “Okay”. Make your praise loud and enthusiastic while your dog is in the crate and ignore him when he leaves. Gradually work up to 30 seconds with the door closed, then one minute and so on. You should stay near the crate and talk to your dog gently as you increase the amount of time he is in the crate with the door closed. If he enters the crate on his own, give him a treat and praise. Always release your dog from the crate with “Okay”. Introduce a special (indestructible!) toy that your dog gets only while in the crate and a Gumabone or Nylabone for him to chew on. Gradually increase the amount of time that he spends in the crate while you are home, in two to five minute increments. Repeat several times a day. You can put a washable blanket or towel in the crate for the dog to sleep on. Pads made especially for crates are also available (young puppies may tear them up, however). When he is comfortable and quiet in the crate for 30 minutes at a time in your presence, begin to leave the house for short periods. Put the crate in a quiet room, close the drapes and put your dog in the crate. He should be exercised, tired and empty (never confine a dog without allowing him to eliminate first). Shut the crate, leave the house for five minutes and return. Let you dog out without any fanfare. If the dog is crying, howling or barking when you return, rap on the crate and growl “Quiet”. Let the dog out as soon as he is quiet for a few seconds. Repeat the process the next time your dog gets sleepy. Gradually increase the amount oftime you are gone, on 5-10 minute segments. As a general rule, young puppies can be crated only for short periods of time, for approximately the number of hours equal to their age in months (4 months = 4 hours). Keep the crate in a quiet area where your dog will not be disturbed if he wants to retreat to it. Check to be sure that the area is free of drafts and not too hot. Do not leave food in the crate for you dog during the day as this will stimulate his digestive tract. A water bottle (such as one used for rabbits) can be attached to the outside of the crate to provide access to water, if

In this article we are going to explore the various dog training collars and tools that abound today’s consumer. If you as a pet-owning consumer were to stroll through the aisles of you local pet store and hit the training equipment aisle, you would certainly on your first visit be overwhelmed by the myriad of choices and options. It seems there are hundreds of different dog training devices available, from toys with built in clickers to anti-pulling harnesses to dog-bark translators. Obviously some carry far less merit as training tools then as purely entertainment devices, however there are a still several options that continue to persist as the years progress. Some of the most common devices available these days include: clickers, head-halters, harnesses, flat-collars, martingale collars, slip-collars, choke chains, pinch/prong collars and remote electronic collars.

There is a lot of dispute in the dog training world about which tool is appropriate and one of the strongest buzz words these days in dog training circles is “humane”.

Some of the dog training tools that are available have been around since the time when my grandparents were born, whereas some are relatively new comers on the scene. Each tool available has a specific purpose and use, and though some dog trainers may tend to favour certain tools, ultimately they all have a place and carry out a specific role. Their persistence in the marketplace is an example of just how useful some tools can be despite the uneducated opinion many people hold about them.

I want to focus this article on the application of these various tools and hopefully dispel the myths and present some facts. A quick note before we begin our analysis. Controversy is a favourite past-time of humans, and perhaps one of the most contentious topics for people is the use of “humane” dog training tools. One of the biggest hurdles for a lot of dog owners is releasing their emotional attachments to their dogs and forcing themselves to form educated opinions of these tools. Lack of education leads to ignorance. Ignorance leads to condemnation. Being realistic is what enables a dog owner to determine humane from inhumane. Using our eyes, ears and brains are the best way to determine how humane something is. Education is key. Another quick note: it is advised that NO collar or training tool should be left on your dog unattended or overnight. The risk of strangulation or injury is always present even if your dog is in a crate or kennel. It’s also important to educate yourself on how to properly use a tool to achieve effective results and minimize risk. Consult a professional dog trainer that is proficient in using a certain tool successfully if you are looking for more information. 

Let’s begin by analyzing some of the newer tools on the market that fit into the supposed “humane” end of the spectrum of dog training tools.

Clickers are a widely used tool in dog training and really represent a modern wave in dog training that is founded on the principles of the behavioural theory of operant and classical conditioning. Avoiding the technical stuff, basically a clicker is a small plastic box embedded with a piece of metal that when pressed like a button makes a loud and unique “click-click” sound. The theory behind this tool is that it is by nature a neutral tool. The noise has no meaning to the dog. However as part of clicker training, the trainer teaches or “conditions” the dog that the clicker equates to something of high-value to the dog. This resource could be a toy/game or more commonly food.

Basically the clicker is used like a camera to capture a picture in the dog’s mind. By clicking the clicker the instant the dog offers or performs a desired behaviour, the action is marked with a reward. Clicker training is very effective at teaching behaviours to dogs, but really only acts as a pull factor. This means that there is nothing pushing the dog to perform except their own desire, which for some dogs is not a problem, but for dogs who are prone to distraction this is only half the equation. Many dogs that have been successfully trained using a clicker, but again keep in mind that it is all highly dependent on the knowledge that is applied.

Head-halters and other variations of the tool work on the premise that the dog learns to stop straining on a leash based on the consequences of their own actions. Essentially these tools are fitted to your dog’s body (either head or chest or a combination) and a leash is attached to the device. The device is designed to prevent pulling by squeezing or torquing the dog’s body parts so as to make it uncomfortable for them to pull on the leash. Some dog trainers used these tools as control devices to help dogs ignore distraction while teaching them desired behaviours with clickers, food or their desired approach.

The biggest challenge with these tools is understanding how to fit them properly to keep them effective and also in being able to phase out the use of the tool and still have the dog understand how to walk properly. This is not a limitation of the tool, but rather a limitation of the individual using the tool. If the halter is used as a control device instead of a training tool, then the dog owner will always be dependent on the tool. This is the same as that old saying: “Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime.” Many people get spoiled by the quick control that they don’t bother to use the tool as part of a training regime.

There area variety of dog training collars available these days which can ultimately be broken down into two categories: static collars and constriction collars.Static collars are collars that stay the same size and do not constrict when a leash is pulled. They come in a variety of materials  such as plastic, nylon, metal, leather as well as different designs. These are the most common tools and most every dog owner has one for their dog. They allow for identification tags to be attached and can even be used for training as a general purpose control collar.

Constriction collars do as the name implies: they constrict when pressure is applied with a leash. Choke chains, slip collars, martingale collars and pinch/prong collars all fit into this category as do some halter/harness designs. Perhaps the oldest and most widely used collar in this category is the choke chain.

Choke chains are remnants from the old military style dog training days. Originating around World War I, they have persisted over the years and are still the most commonly used tool by police and military departments in the US today. As with any tool, proper knowledge of how to use the tool properly is of paramount importance. Improper sizing and fit of ANY of these collars can result in damage to your dog.There is a reason that many of these tools have persisted over the years, and that is because with the proper application and knowledge these tools allow dog trainers to train dogs reliably and repeatably. If you are unsure of what can be accomplished using these tools, seek out a professional dog trainer who is successful using these tools to gain an educated opinion. Ask to see their dog as well. This will give you an impression of the results you can expects. A visual picture is worth a lot more than a thousand words.

A final category of dog training collars that is perhaps the most controversial is that of electronic dog training collars. There are different tools within this category that all serve different purposes.

There are electronic bark control devices such as bark-beepers which are designed to discourage nuisance barking by distracting the dog with a high-frequency beep activated by their bark. Bark collars use either a citronella burst or adjustable electric stimulation to deter unwanted barking. Usually a sound/vibration sensor on the collar detects when the dog barks an emits a correction. These devices and their quality vary a lot from manufacturer to manufacturer. There are pros and cons to these devices.

Firstly with citronella collars and bark-beepers these are designed to interrupt behaviour through distraction or in the case of citronella collars a mild aversive. The problem here is every dog is different and what works for one dog won’t necessarily work for all dogs. Some dogs are not deterred by citronella spray at all. They simply learn to avoid or ignore it. 

With electronic bark collars, it is imperative for the above reason to make sure you purchase a collar that has multiple levels available. Relate bark collars and the stimulation provided to the volume of a stereo. You want adjustability because different situations may require higher or lower levels, and also because some dogs are more or less sensitive than the next. Also keep in mind that bark collar are 100% safe. There is no possible way that your dog can be burnt or hurt by the electrical stimulation they deliver. These devices are designed on the same principles that muscle stimulators are designed on. These devices used very low current stimulation which will not damage human or dog tissue. Some models are waterproof and some even have bark odometers to let you know how many times your dog barked while you were out.

Finally we reach the area or remote controlled electronic dog collars. Again these collars can either utilize a citronella based spray or electric stimulation. The citronella based remote collars are useful but typically are limited for the same reasons mentioned above for bark collars, but also in that they tend to be cheaply built and are really only designed for bad behaviour solving and typically don’t work past a 50-100ft in reality.

Remote electric collars are sometimes referred to as “Shock Collars” which really is a bad name for these tools. The term shock is an emotionally charged term that creates an image of pain in people’s minds. They relate these tools to cattle-prods and tasers, which couldn’t be further from the truth. Modern remote collars utilize medical-grade electric stimulation which is both highly adjustable and 100% safe. Modern advances in technology also allow for some remote collars to utilize vibration features which are also useful in dog training. 

Changes in the mindset of some dog trainers has allowed for the application of remote dog collars in a wide variety of applications. Traditionally remote dog collars were used strictly as an aversive impulse to deter unwanted behaviour or to correct undesired response during training in distracting environments or at distance. Recently dog trainers have begun to take advantage of the adjustability of modern day remote collars and have found that remote collar no longer are confined to being used strictly as punitive tools. Many dog trainers are able to use remote collars to actually teach dog new skills as well as break the boundaries implied by traditional dog training tools and approaches.

Remote collars are a controversial topic but as with any dog training tool, it is imperative to educate yourself and view successful remote collar training in action before making an educated opinion. Sit Means Sit has a wide variety of dog training videos and even offers free demonstrations of our dog training technique at our dog training locations as well as our dog training seminars.

The internet is a vast resource for dog training and information on dog training collars and tools. Regardless of how you choose to train your dog and what tool you use, remember to use your common sense.

Determine your goals, educate yourself on the options available to you, seek out assistance or knowledge on how to use a tool successfully, but most importantly do what is going to work best for you and your dog.

Ashton Fitz-Gerald

Would you like to meet other local single, attractive dog owners just like yourself ? Sure you would!

 Animal Attraction is a super fun group that is hosted by Ashley Starling, owner of Sit Means Sit Dog Training. We meet once a week at a host of different venues throughout the EastBay area.  The meetings run for about two hours where we mingle over a glass or two of wine, have a quick ten minute dog training session, then on to more wine, all the while listening to the coolest sounds around! To get in on the fun, register by clicking on his face up there at the top. This way you can see who might be showing up!

It’s a great way to meet other people with a similar life-style choice!  More to come….

Got a question for Ashley?

Ph.  925-324-5759

E.  ashleystarling@sitmeanssit.com

You get to go… They get to stay!

www.whiskersandtails.us

Whiskers & Tails Pet Sitting and Safety is a licensed-bonded-insured, dependable and loving in-home Pet Care Service.
Our professional care includes lots of hugs and kisses for your furry family members in your absence. Whiskers and Tails is a proud member of both Pet Sitters International and the East Bay Pet Sitting Association.

At Whiskers and Tails we believe safety and wellness for your pets is as important as professional care is. We educate our clients on safety & wellness and offer a variety of classes from pet first aid & CPR to taking care of your senior pet & dental care. See our Calendar of Classes from our First Aid Page for upcoming classes and seminars.

As we are sure you know, pets feel most comfortable in their own environment, their home. So when it is time to go on that much needed vacation, or escape for the weekend, let us help! Let Whiskers and Tails Pet Sitting give you peace of mind, knowing your pets are safe, secure, happy, and well cared for when you’re not there.

If you would like referrals, we would be more than happy to supply you with contact information from several of our past and current clients.

Whiskers and Tails owner, Suzanne Perino, with Don Won and Sherman

To Whom It May Concern:

I am the owner of a 1-1/2 year old female Rottweiller with a lot of energy.

I had tried different training techniques but without any success.

Just when I was giving up and thinking this was more dog than I was able to

handle I contacted Ashley Starling at Sit Means Sit.

He soon pointed out training mistakes I was making and also showed me how to

correctly fit and use the training collar.

I am finally seeing progress and by continuing practicing his techniques I can 

only see things getting better for me and my dog and having a much better relationship.

I also found my dog is more willing to train now and to do things over i.e. practicing

going out the front door without pulling me out the front door etc. and the convenience

of him coming to my house has made it a great experience. 

I highly recommend Sit Means Sit.

Nancy A.

Alameda, CA