Name: Bella Smith from Villa Rica Ga 30180

Likes: Running & chewing

Pet-Peeves: Having to go to the leaf pile to poop

Favorite Toy:  Candy Cane dog toy

Favorite Treat: Kong

Favorite Walk: Morning

Best Trick: Sit Means Sit

Arrival Story:  Brought by Santa for Christmas 2011

Name: Beuller Bullard from Hiram Ga 30141

Breed: Puggle

Likes: People, treats & playtime

Pet-peeves: Being handled too much

Favorite Toy: Twisty hide a treat

Favorite Treat:  Pork Sticks

Best Trick: Sit Means Sit

Arrival: He was flown in on an airplane and warmed up pretty quick.  He is in love with his new family

Dog’s name:  Neko Hickman from Douglasville 30135

Breed: Boxer

Likes: Napping under the bed

Favorite Toy:  Kong   and  Shoes

Sit Means Sit – Atlanta wants to wish you and your four legged friends a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

During the Holidays we will have some changes to our normal schedule.

Our office will be closed on Dec 24 & 25 and Jan 1

Group classes are cancelled for Saturday Dec. 24 &  Monday Dec. 26

We will have regularly scheduled group classes on Saturday Dec 31.

Give the gift of training this Christmas!

Are you or someone that you know getting a new puppy for Christmas?  Or do you have an older dog that would benefit from a little training and manners?  Why not give the gift that keeps on giving?  Training lasts a lifetime and continues to pay dividends every time that you interact with your dog.

Dog training gift certificates are available for partial and full packages.  Give us a call for more details.  770.214.9247

Darin and the rest of the Sit Means Sit Atlanta dog training crew would like to wish each of you a safe and Merry Christmas!

The Holidays are an exciting time for all of us, including our dogs.  However, the change in routine can lead to serious problems for your pooch.  Take some time to ensure that you have a happy and healthy dog this holiday season.  Here are my top tips for a safe dog.

1.  Exercise, exercise, exercise. We all get busy with additional shopping, decorating and party planning.  Don’t let your busy plans interfere with your dog’s needs.  Like I always say, a tired dog is a good dog!  A combination of lengthy controlled walks and extended place commands work well to level out the extra energy.  Utilize long walks before your guests arrive and take advantage of the “place” command to prevent your dog from getting into the holiday goodies.

2.  Be cautious with the holiday decorations. The ever popular poinsettia is toxic to dogs.  Chocolate, while delicious, can be poisonous to dogs.  The decorated trees with shiny balls and tinsel can be a tempting danger.  Many dogs ingest tinsel only to result in complications.  Keep in mind that your dog is not accustomed to all the new decor and will likely explore the new scents.  Keep a close eye on your dog and be cautious of unsupervised time, especially with the newer pups or younger dogs.

3.  Set the rules. With all the extra baked goods around the house, temptations are everywhere for your dog.  Add in the guests that may want to share some holiday spirit with Fido and toss his “just a small bite” of the holiday meal and you end up with a sick dog.  I recently had a discussion with a veterinary friend that lamented the fact that they will inevitably see a busy spike in business immediately following the holidays.  Sure, he appreciates the business but would rather not see your dog ill.  While it is tempting to share with your pooch, do so sparingly and be sure to set rules for your guests.  If everyone gives just a little bit, it adds up and your pooch ends up sick.  Rich, fatty foods can cause problems ranging from stomach upsets to pancreatitis, which is an inflammation of the pancreas resulting in pain, vomiting, and dehydration. Dogs with this serious condition often require hospitalization for treatment.

4.  Separation. If you have a shy or nervous dog, do not forget to give them their own space to get away and rest.  Give them the chance to enjoy the festivities, but make arrangements for them to have some peace and quiet if they desire.  Personally, I do not want to build a habit of avoidance in shy dogs by always allowing them to escape.  I prefer to teach my dog and help them overcome their fears or phobias.  However, if the crowds are overwhelming you may need to choose the path of least resistance.

5.  Preparation. Be sure to keep your dogs collars and tags on them.  With guests in and out of your home, it is easy for your dog to slip out unnoticed.  Be sure your dog can be quickly identified and returned to you.  Practice and brush up on your obedience.  A solid “sit” or “place” while your guests are arriving and departing can prevent your pup from bolting out the door.  If you are to busy to supervise your pet, consider the use of a crate or baby gate.

6. Keep Santa Safe! Be sure to remind Fido that Santa will be coming to visit.  The jolly old plump man coming down the chimney is a good guy.  Unless your pooch wants to end up on the naughty list, he should never bite the big guy in red suit

Potty Training may be one of the most frustrating, yet common challenges you will face when introducing a puppy into your home.  Let’s start by discussing things pet owners should not do.  Try to avoid using newspaper or puppy pads, which can mislead your dog into believing it is okay to relieve himself inside your home.  Secondly, DO NOT punish the dog for pottying in the wrong place and never rub the dog’s nose in it. If you are going to be away from home for long periods of time, it is important to be consistent in following these simple steps.

Step #1—Management System

One of the first things you should do is establish a management system or “Den Space”.  (A crate or kennel is usually the best type)  The crate or kennel should be just large enough for your dog to easily stand up and turn around.  A crate that is too big or using a large crate without a divider will give your puppy the opportunity to relieve himself in the crate.  A crate with a removable divider, allowing the interior of the crate to grow as your puppy matures, will be the best solution.   A playpen or even a small bathroom, are also options for a “Den Space”.  If you choose either of these den spaces, make sure they are “puppy-proof,” or free of objects or materials that dogs can chew or destroy.

Step #2—Routine

Every time your dog comes out of his “Den Space,” you should take him to the designated “Potty” area.  In the early stages of training, it is important to make both the exit door and the “Potty” area consistent.

Next, select a word or phrase to use as a command each time you take your dog outdoors to relieve himself.  The word “Potty” is most commonly used and may be the best choice. Another phrase you might consider is, “Do your business.” An important step in this training is to use your word or phrase repeatedly, beginning the moment your dog is released from his “Den Space.” This will begin to teach your dog what exit to approach when he has to go.  Once your dog is outside, keep repeating your word or phrase.  Do not yell or use a questioning tone of voice, instead use a motivating voice.  When your dog begins to relieve himself, immediately start to praise him.  Do not wait until he is finished before giving him the positive reinforcement he deserves for going in the correct place.

A Word About Feeding:

An important part of defining your routine includes establishing a consistent feeding schedule.  Ideally you should feed your dog two times a day (For puppies: two to three times a day). Leave the food down for only 15 to 20 minutes per feeding.  If your dog doesn’t eat within that period of time, remove the food until the next meal.  Don’t worry if your dog skips a feeding, he will eat when he needs to and within a couple of days he will be eating at mealtime.  If you don’t know when food goes in, you won’t know when it is ready to come out!

Step #3—Supervision

While your dog is out of his “Den Space” it is important to supervise him.  Always be on the lookout for signs that your dog has to relieve himself, such as sniffing around or circling in place.   One fatal yet common mistake is giving your puppy too much freedom, too quickly.

Initially: 100% Supervision

When you first start potty training, don’t let the dog out of your sight, no matter where he is within your home.  You need to catch him in the act of relieving himself, in the wrong place, every time.  Supervision will eliminate unseen accidents and reinforce the rules of housebreaking.

Managing Supervision

If you can’t give your dog 100 percent supervision, tether him to a table or a chair with a leash.  This is ideal if you are eating a meal or just relaxing and watching television.  If you are preoccupied and cannot watch your puppy, keep him in his “Den Space”.

When Accidents Happen…

If you catch your puppy making a mistake, immediately take him to the “potty” area.  It isn’t necessary to correct or scold your dog when you catch him going in the wrong place.  If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up and refer to your rules of supervision. Within these three steps, you will soon discover that the key to successfully housebreaking your puppy, comes down to one principal… Be Consistent!

By definition, pet emergencies are critical health crises which require immediate medical intervention. Creating an emergency first aid kit is recommended for all pet parents and may buy your pet critical time until veterinary care can be sought through a pet hospital. Many of the supplies you will be using to create your pet first aid kit will also be handy in case of human first aid needs. A first aid kit for dogs and people is a vital component in an emergency disaster preparedness plan as well.

What Should Your Emergency First Aid Kit Contain?

You can purchase pet first aid kits or make your own. A plastic tote or a large book bag is good for storing your kit. It is advised that you make not one but two kits, one that will be in your house and one that can travel in your car at all times.

Your Kit Should Include:

• Batteries
• Flashlight
• Cotton balls and swabs
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Sterile gauze pads and bandages
• First aid tape
• Antibacterial ointment
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Rubbing alcohol
• Antiseptic wipes
• A muzzle
• Extra leash
• A splint
• Styptic powder to stop bleeding
• Pepto bismol
• Prescription medications (for you and your pets)
• Sterile latex gloves
• Eye wash
• A book on human and pet first aid
• Mineral oil
• Buffered aspirin
• Benadryl
• A blanket
• A large bottle of water
• Self-activating hot pack
• Self-activating ice pack
• Hydrocortisone cream
• Copies of veterinary documents
• Thermometer

Whenever possible, a cell phone with service that can reach 911 in case of emergencies with the phone number of the nearest emergency vet programmed is a great addition to your emergency first aid kit. Check your batteries periodically to make sure that they are ready to go when you need them in an emergency.

If you have a dog that is prone to bloating or of a breed prone to bloating, your kit may require additional components. If you suspect your dog is bloating, it is imperative that you seek medical assistance immediately, but knowing how to provide bloat first aid and being prepared to do so can literally save your dog’s life. Here is a great website discussing first aid for bloat which recommends the following additional first aid kit items for bloat prone dogs:

1. 1/2 inch (inside diameter) x 6 feet, clear, non-toxic, vinyl tube (outside diameter = 5/8 inch). 1.25 cm x 182 cm (outside diameter = 1.6 cm)

2. 1/4 inch (inside diameter) x 6 feet, clear, non-toxic, vinyl tube (outside diameter = 3/8 inch). .60 cm x 182 cm (outside diameter = .95 cm)

3. 2×2 wood block, 8 inches long with 3/4 inch diameter hole in center. 5 cm x 5 cm x 20 cm (1.90 cm diameter hole)

4. Water-soluble lubricating jelly, such as K-Y jelly.

5. 2 feet of soft nylon cord, or an old soft nylon leash. 61 cm of cord

6. Electrical tape to mark tubing

Giving First Aid To Pets

Now that you’ve created your emergency first aid kit, what will you do with these supplies in case of an emergency? Our head trainer, Chris Laseter, offers courses in pet first aid.  He is a certified instructor through  an organization called PetTech. Courses are usually fairly inexpensive and are typically only one or two days long. Many courses will include a pet first aid book – keep it with your first aid kit. Additionally, ask your instructor for recommendations on one you can purchase or pick up a copy of “Pet First Aid – Cats and Dogs” from the Red Cross.

Just as your pet first aid kit will contain many items which are valuable in human medical emergencies, many of the topics covered in a pet first aid class will mirror those taught in a human first aid class, like performing CPR, helping an animal who is choking, recognizing and responding to signs of shock, cleaning and bandaging wounds, splinting, assessing vital signs, insect and snake bites, etc. Your course should also cover pet-specific topics like restraining and muzzling, bloat, taking your dog’s temperature, and dealing with bloat, etc. Here is a great collection of “Quick Tips” from the Red Cross on pet first aid.

Prepared And Knowledgeable Saves Lives

The time and expense invested in creating a first aid kit and learning how to use it effectively in medical emergencies can very well save the life of a lived one, two or four-legged. You do not need to create separate first aid kits for the pets and people, although separate first aid training is advocated for human and pet first aid emergencies. Recertification is critical and recommended at least every two years.

Get certified in pet first aid and create your emergency first aid kit today. Your family will thank you for it!

By Fred Hassen & Toni Drugmand

Does your dog chew your favorite things? Are clothing items and shoes favorite items for your pet? Chewing on things that bear your scent can be a way for your dog to occupy his alone time with. Chewing and becoming destructive are common behavior problem for many pet owners.

Chewing is a natural behavior

Chewing is a behavior in the wild that is natural. Your dog has to be taught what to chew on. Chewing can happen for many reasons. Puppies chew when they are cutting teeth. You could have a dog that gets stressed when left alone, often called “separation anxiety” chewing or other destructive behaviors result out of anxiety and nervousness. You could have a dog that simply wasn’t taught not to chew when he was teething as a puppy. Now he has developed a habit or pattern of chewing when he is bored.

Supervise

For the many reasons that your dog may chew, you want to be able to address the problem and create a new pattern of not chewing. The most important aspect to consider with the chewing dog is that your dog whether a puppy or an adult must be supervised when he has the run of your home and yard in order to teach him not to chew on inappropriate things.

Contain your Pet

If you are unable to supervise your dog, then you must have a safe secure containment or management system for your dog so that he doesn’t learn a negative pattern of chewing by the reward of doing the wrong behavior when you are not available to supervise his actions. Booby-trapping the potential chewed targets is another way to approach chewing, but this will be very difficult to set up and accomplish reliably.

Test reliability with time

Using a dog crate, dog-run or other means of containment is a helpful tool to get you past the point of having to put your dog away, but until he has proven himself worthy of not being destructive for several months consistently your dog should not have the run of the home or yard if you hope to stop the wrong behaviors.

Interrupt the behavior with the help of a training aid

There are two ways to stop chewing. One is to contain your dog as we just mentioned. The other is to interrupt his flavorful explorations during his supervised free time! When your dog is interested in trying some new and exotic yummy taste of your home, like trying out the dirt in the flowerpot, use a training aid such as a long line that can interrupt the behavior with a gentle tug. Another suggested tool is a spray bottle with water that can spritz at the time of the action, a shake can with pennies is another tool that could be effective, though some dogs are noise sensitive to this. A remote collar is another way to interrupt the pup’s behavior. When using a remote collar, it is best to contact a “Sit Means Sit” trainer to get you headed in the right direction. Our method uses the remote collar as an attention getter, a way to non-invasively interrupt a behavior and gain attention. It is not used as heavy correction. Seeking a professional is the best way to know how to train your dog for your specific needs.

Obedience Training is helpful

General obedience training can be a helpful outlet as it will relax and tire your dog, but don’t count on “heel”, “sit” and “down” exercises to completely fix the problem without addressing where the dog is left when un-supervised.