Potty Training Your Puppy

Housebreaking requires a combination of creating a routine for your puppy or dog, setting up a management system, and constant supervision.  The more consistent you follow these guidelines, the quicker and more reliable your puppy or dog will understand where to eliminate. Believe it or not, house training is one of the easiest things to teach a dog because dogs are clean by nature and don’t like to soil their den area. Using this concept, begin by always supervising your puppy when she is not in her den/crate environment. The largest reason people fail with house training is that they give the puppy more freedom than the pup or dog is capable of handling. An un-supervised pup or dog is bound to make mistakes. Think about a toddler; you wouldn’t leave a 2 year old unattended, would you? This potty training system works for dogs of all ages, not just puppies.

Firstly, it is important to create a routine for your puppy or dog.  Set up a feeding and watering schedule.  This might consist of feeding and watering your dog two to three times a day (ask your vet for proper feeding instructions).  Also, provide water after you exercise your dog.  Free access to food and water is not recommended until your dog is completely housebroken due to the fact we cannot regulate when they will have to eliminate.  By setting up a feeding and watering schedule, you will better predict when your puppy is going to eliminate. Ask the breeder or rescue organization where you got the dog if puppy already has a schedule and what it is.

Take your puppy out regularly, every 2-3 hours.  Also, your first action in the morning should be to take your puppy out of their crate and bring them outside to the spot where you want them to eliminate.  You may want to carry your puppy out if he is very young and you think they might try to eliminate inside the house.  Also, take your puppy outside to eliminate about 20 minutes after each meal.  During the 20 minutes prior to letting your dog out, refer to the management system and supervision discussed below.  When eliminating tell your puppy to “go potty”, or whatever command you want to use while he is eliminating.   The goal is for your puppy to eventually eliminate on command, so the “go potty” phrase linked with the action of going to the bathroom will help him understand to eliminate on command later.  Praise your puppy when he is done. At the end of this is a sample schedule to help plan your own potty training schedule.

Supervising your puppy is important, because with proper supervision you will be able to catch your puppy in the act of eliminating in the house and will be able to direct him to the proper spot to eliminate.  Tying a leash from the puppy to you is a great way to make sure you always have an eye on your puppy.  Some of the elimination signs to look for are constant sniffing, spinning in a circling, and squatting.   If you catch your puppy in the action of eliminating in the house startle him with a loud noise and pick him up immediately and walk to his elimination spot.  Catching your dog in action is a very important part of the process of housebreaking. Remember, do not punish him or, among other possible issues, he will learn, because he is scared, not to eliminate in front of you.

Management System

Continue with this cycle until you and your dog have a routine going. Success earns the pup freedom for twenty minutes or so. Gradually extend the time as he grows older and more reliable. Remember a seven-week-old pup does not have a great deal of bladder control. Don’t expect him to go more than a couple of hours without having to eliminate, and don’t expect him to wait once he is out of his crate to eliminate. If you decide not to use a management system, you will find accidents all over the house, and you will be creating a habit that will be more difficult to fix later.Creating a management system for your puppy is also a critical step in housebreaking. The management system is used when you cannot physically supervise your puppy, such as a playpen or a crate.

Crate training is the most common management system used today.  The crate should not be used as a punishment tool, but as a way to know your dog will not eliminate in the house. Conversely, using a crate to replicate a den can help the dog feel safe and secure in their new environment. If you cannot supervise your dog, place him in his crate.  Most puppies will be able to stay in a crate for their age in months plus one.  So, an 8-week-old (2 months) puppy should be able to stay in a crate for 3 hours without eliminating.  Remember this is a rule of thumb and every dog is different. If the puppy or dog is given the opportunity to get out of his crate when necessary, it can aid your house training efforts enormously. As the puppy is let out from the dog crate, take him out on a leash to the spot you will want him to eliminate. If he goes, praise him. If not, put him back into his crate and try again in about 15 minutes or so.

Make sure to choose a crate size that is appropriate to your dog. You don’t want to choose one so large that the puppy can eliminate and then get away from it. At a pet store, tell the sales person what kind of dog you have and how old and they will be able to help you select a crate that is the appropriate size.

Other Housebreaking Issues

Other housebreaking problems may exist, such as marking and submissive urination.  Proper training, coupled with supervision and management systems will either eliminate these problems or minimize them.  Marking, performed by male dogs, is not a housebreaking issue. It is an issue related to instinctive behaviors. Your dog may be fully housetrained and would not think of peeing in the house but to a dog lifting his leg to scent mark is not the same as having to go to the bathroom. We as humans tend to think of dog urine as something unpleasant, but to a dog it is something of great interest. A dog leaves its scent to tell other dogs a message. This message could be about whose territory it is, about the dog’s social order or advertising mating availability. Dogs use urine marking to show their dominance or to claim something as belonging to them.

Submissive urination usually diminishes with training. Most importantly, remember that you are dealing with a very sensitive dog with little confidence. When training commences, the submissive dog has structure and guidance in his life and becomes more confident.  Hence, the submissive urination starts to diminish.

If your pet has an “accident” in your house, it is important to neutralize the spot with an enzymatic cleaner to completely get rid of the odor and proteins related to the urine. Otherwise, the smell is a call to the animal to mark the same spot again. Enzymatic cleaners such as Nature’s Miracle and Simple Solution absorb the odor and proteins from the urine. These products are safe for use around pets and children.

Common Questions and Problems

“What about paper-training or potty pad training?”

The old method of paper or pad training can be very effective; however it adds unnecessary time and mess to the whole process. Owners will have MUCH more to clean up with the usual mess and smell then you would normally have to deal with. Usually you will still have to transition to outside anyway at some point which will only hinder your progress.

“My puppy goes outside, then comes in and poops on the floor!”

You as the owner/trainer are at fault here. You are missing the two big keys in successful potty training:

1. You MUST accompany your puppy outside with a leash on to supervise elimination
2. Freedom in the house is only earned by appropriate elimination outside. No pees or a poop – NO FREEDOM, and puppy goes back in his crate. Next, the owner checks again in a period of ~15 minutes to an hour and takes puppy outside on the leash for another opportunity to eliminate properly to earn freedom.

“I stand at the door and watch while my puppy goes potty outside. When he is finished and comes back in, he gets a treat. Why do I have to go out with my puppy?”

Your puppy is getting his treat for coming back into the house, NOT for appropriate elimination. Praise must happen during elimination to make the connection in the puppy’s mind. Some dogs will run outside and run back in without eliminating because they know they’ll get a treat. This can also encourage frequent demands to go out – just so they can get a treat when they come in!

“ I leave my puppy outside to play for an hour or more, then I bring him in and he eliminates. Why couldn’t he just do it while he was outside?”

Your pup more likely than not did eliminate when he first went out, but he didn’t have to go later, and he certainly doesn’t have the human capacity to think “well, my owner is probably going to take me inside soon, so I’d better get my business done while I’m outside!” Also, your puppy is very likely going to get distracted by smells, sounds, you, etc. You need to remind a puppy who has been outside for a while to “Go Potty!”

“When will I know if my dog is housebroken?”

Appropriate elimination first happens primarily because we, as owners, control it. We are working, when we potty train, to establish a habit, and that will usually take two or three months, depending on how consistent and persistent you are as the owner/trainer.

Here are some indications your dog/puppy understands the program:

• “Accidents” in the house and/or crate have decreased during the training period to none or almost none.
• When you use your commands for elimination, your puppy responds by eliminating.
• Your puppy starts to ask to go outside by barking, running to the door, staring at you or in some other way notifies you to their need. The freedom you give your puppy is “accident” free.

“My puppy wakes me up at 3AM every night!! I take him out; he pees; and then wants to play. I play with him for a while and put him back in his crate where he cries for some time before he settles down. How do I break him of this?”

Nighttime needs should diminish quickly as the puppy gets older. At first, you may need to get up 2-3 times nightly for a young pup. That frequency should quickly reduce to once a night for a 9-10 week old pup. When a puppy cries in the night, you do have to check on him – it’s the only way he has to tell you there is a problem. You will soon learn which cries are “fussing” and which indicates a real need.

Remember, you are working to establish a habit when potty training? Well, if you get up during the night to take the puppy out and play, you are establishing a nighttime play routine. Any nighttime trips outside should be all about eliminating outside. You must immediately put them back in the crate and then go back to attempting to get some sleep.

Special Problems

Dogs or puppies purchased from a pet shop or other place where they were always kept in a small cage.

These dogs never had a choice and had to eliminate where they lived. Owners must devote extra time to take such dogs outside more frequently in order to get elimination outside rather than in the crate. Giving them excessive praise when they “go” is essential so they learn that life is better when they eliminate outside. Elimination in the crate should be ignored and just cleaned up at first – with no correction or harsh words. Training these dogs takes a lot of patience and time.

About Small breeds and “Sneaking”

Some people say that small breeds can be difficult, if not impossible to potty train. This is not because they are stupid – actually they are rather smart; smart enough to sneak to hidden locations to leave their deposits. This simply requires more vigilance on the owner’s part, and less freedom for the dog. If necessary, the owner needs to attach the other end of the leash to their belt loop to ensure 100% supervision.

Spitefulness? “When I leave the house, my dog frequently leaves me “presents”. I know he hates me to leave and I’m sure he’s just doing it because he’s mad at me!”

Dogs, by nature, are not spiteful animals. That is too much of a human emotion and too much reasoning: “If she leaves, then I’m going to poop on the floor because I know she HATES that!”

Usually, if there is an “accident” when the owner is gone, these are the real issues:

• I forgot to do my business outside
• I really don’t get this whole potty training thing
• I waited by the door and told you a million times but you didn’t listen or see me
• You left me alone and I’m not ready to be alone by myself and got scared and stressed so I couldn’t help it
• I thought it was what you wanted me to do. After all you gave me so many treats inside.

Sample Potty Management Schedule

6:30-7:00	Take the pup out to potty. Don’t wait until you shower or coffee is made
7:15-7:30	Confined for playtime (e.g. Kitchen, playpen, etc.)
7:30 a.m.	Feed and Water. Allow 10 min for eating and remove dishes even if not finished
7:40 a.m.	Take pup out on leash. Allow time to potty. Don’t distract the pup; this is a time for business not for playing. Watch to make sure you see the pup potty. Don’t just assume since the pup has been out long enough that it has went. If the puppy does not potty after about 5 – 10 minutes, take the puppy inside and confine to the crate for 10 minutes. Then take the pup back out and try again. This applies after every feeding. No freedom until the pup has gone potty. Confine to a crate of the appropriate size (you may need a puppy divider) when you leave: place a safe chew toy for entertainment.
Noon	Take pup out to potty.
12:15-12:30	Confined Play time (e.g. Kitchen, playpen, etc.)
12:30	Feed and Water
12:45	Take pup out. Remember, it is business time
1:00	Confine to Crate
5:00	Take pup out – as soon as you get home – DON’T WAIT!
5:15	Feed and Water. No feeding after this scheduled time
5:30	Take pup out
6:00-6:30	Supervised Play Time
6:30	Confine to crate while you eat and settle in.
7:15	Take pup out. After this outing pick up water for the night (no more water)
7:45- 8:45	Supervised Play Session
8:45	Confine to crate
9:30	Take pup out for the final time. Once again assume nothing. Watch them eliminate to ensure they have done it.
9:45	Bed time in crate

This is just an example. Everyone’s situation, and each puppy can be different. Therefore, you need to make a schedule that will meet your needs. The idea here is that you set a realistic schedule and follow it – no excuses. Consistency and supervision is key if you want to be successful and, more importantly, fair to your pup.