How to tell if my dog is being agressive.

As a dog trainer who takes in board and train dogs, who live with me and go places with me and with my dogs, I often have occasion to introduce a new dog to my family (which includes my dogs). Once a client completes private classes, we also offer group classes and here too is an opportunity for more dogs to meet each other. As such, it is important to note dog behavior (body language) to identify signs of aggression as well as conduct the introductions in the appropriate way.

Many people will just bring a dog home and let it loose in the backyard or house and hope (assume) things will work out fine. Sometimes this is the case, however, all too often it is not. And it is too late if you try this approach first! It is likely the dog being introduced to the family is stressed because he/she really has no idea what is going on. Then this dog is thrust into a home and/or yard that is not familiar and with dog(s) that are probably rather confident and possibly protective of their territory. The dog being introduced is going to have a lot of energy (potentially fearful, stressed and even playful and excited energy) and the dog(s) at home are going to have the same high energy levels (again, could just be playful, but also might be fear, protective, etc). This energy needs a controlled outlet as even playful energy can quickly escalate to be a problem and stressful energy can be explosive.

Fortunately there is a simple way to help release this energy, reduce stress, and more safely introduce a new dog into the house. You will need a few tools including:

• At least 2 people – one for each dog or at least one for the new dog and one for the existing dog(s)
• A leash for all the dogs. If the dogs decide to fight it is important you are able to pull the way from each other. On this note, make sure the collar is tight and the leash and collar are in good condition and sturdy. You don’t want the leash or collar to break or slip off in the unfortunate case of a fight.
• A relaxing walk route that is not overly familiar (e.g. potential territorial) for the existing dogs

Steps for a Safe Introduction:

Go for a single file walk – At first you need to keep the new dog separate from the existing dogs and simply go for a walk on leash. Walk single file. It does not matter if the new dog is in front or behind at first. You can change positions once in awhile but not with the dogs passing close to each other (for example, cross the street, move ahead and cross back over). This simply allows the dogs to start to get familiar with each other without the high energy and stress of an immediate introduction.

The key is for you to stay calm and do not project any frustration or fear through the leash or your body language to any of the dogs. Keeping the dogs at a distance for awhile can also help to reduce your anxiety and thus help everyone else to be calm too. Do not stress if your dog is not perfect or is pulling a bit. Just increase the distance until the dog(s) calm down and then very slowly start to decrease the distance. Remember to praise your dog and reassure them that the other dog is not a threat. Again, do not get frustrated and anxious at your dog. Your dog will assume your anxiety is the same source as his anxiety (the other dog) and it will just get worse – stay calm and relaxed.

Keep moving – Walking reduces intensity and keeps energy moving. You probably have noticed that if you walk by another person/dog, or jog by another person/dog, your dog is less distracted and “bouncy” then if you stop and try to hold back your dog. If not, pay attention in the future and you will. Even if you have a high energy dog, you will get through that “freaky” energy more quickly if you are moving then staying still. Additionally, walking together starts to simulate the dogs working together beginning to form a bond (very loose at this point).

If one or both dogs show signs of play (e.g. a play bow). Very good! But don’t let them play yet. You still want to have them relax so the play does not escalate to quickly. Keep moving!

Let the dogs “Tweet” – I call a dog marking and sniffing other dogs elimination (poop and pee) “doggy tweets”. Dogs learn a lot from smells in urine and feces. So, if one (or both) of the dogs eliminates, let the other dog sniff the poop or pee (after the dog that did the eliminating moves away – it is not time for them to formally meet yet. It is a good sign if the dogs are relaxed enough to eliminate around one another. Remember, sniffing parts of the body that we do not sniff is normal dog behavior and part of meeting a new dog.

Coffee break – Take breaks and give your dog long massaging strokes to help them relax. This is especially important if there are any signs of anxiety. If you are not sure if they dogs are anxious, be safe and take breaks anyway. During the break, the dogs are still not interacting and the breaks should not be close to the other dog – they need to be far enough from each other on a break that they are not paying attention to each other.

Time for a group walk – Finally once the dogs are calm in the single file walk near each other; and there has been some sniffing; and you have been walking for awhile, start walking next to each other. The dogs do not need to be right next to each other (you can be between them) the key is you are walking together. This will continue to form that “working together” feel for the dogs and help their bond of cooperation strengthen. They may or may not be friends by now, but they should be at least coping with each other.

Play and/or Enter the Home

This “introduction walk” should normally be 30 or even 45 minutes – the longer the better. Take your time. As with people, first impressions are very important! Once the walk is completed, it is not important the dogs play with each other, but they should at least be able to tolerate each other in the same house. Always continue to watch for signs of aggression or stress!

If all the dogs are relaxed, and they want to play, this should be fine. However, you should only allow one dog at a time to play with the new dog. Dogs play best in twos and you do not want to ruin your hard work by causing stress again because your dogs “gang up” on the new dog. This is true even though your dogs might just want to play. The new dog is still new (like a new toy) and more then one dog tries to play with the new dog at once it can be very stressful and very quickly escalate. As always, monitor the play and ensure proper behavior is occurring (role reversal, breaks being allowed, handicapping, etc). These terms are all discussed in the article “How to Tell if a Dog is Being Aggressive”.

Dogs usually do not share well! – One of the most common causes of fights in the home are fights over toys or food. You may need to feed the dogs in separate rooms or in their crates. Also, do not leave uneaten food laying around. I cannot count how many clients have told me the fight was because “Lucy was done eating and Benji was just eating her left overs when Lucy went nuts and bit Benji.” Be prepared and have two of everything (e.g. water and food bowls, toys, etc) . It is natural for a dog (even a submissive dog) to be protective of anything they have (e.g. their food, a toy he or she is playing with, etc).

Please also teach your kids they DO NOT take ANYTHING from the dog!

If you know one or both of the dogs is aggressive or very fearful, or if you are just not comfortable, seek the help of a professional dog trainer or behaviorist. The first meeting is very important!

Learn more about our dog training services in Madison, WI here.