Category Archives: Behavioral Issues
Understanding Dog Aggression
What You Should Know About The Kinds Of Dog Aggression
Animals that live in groups have to be able to communicate in order to cooperate and avoid disputes. Communicating involves a set of postural and facial signals that indicate the animal’s mood and intent.
Affiliative (Friendly) Behavior decreases the social distance between participants in an interaction. A relaxed body, rapid tail wag, jumping, whimpering, barking in a playful way and a “happy face” are characteristics of affiliative behavior.
Aggressive behavior is also a part of normal social behavior. Dogs have choices to make as to how to react when social conflict presents itself. These choices are termed agonistic (social conflict) behaviors. One choice a dog can make when he feels threatened or challenged is to avoid the social conflict by fleeing. Avoidance behaviors include looking away, backing away or trying to escape. Another choice a dog can make is to display
submissive behaviors in order to turn off or inhibit a threat. Active submission is expressed by ears flattened or pulled back, tail tucked, eye contact avoided (looks away), body turned away, eyes dilated, and whining or high pitched vocalizations. Passive submission is expressed by the dog rolling onto its back, exposing its abdomen and sometimes urinating. A third choice a dog can make is to threaten. Threatening behavior is a warning that if the recipient doesn’t stop what he is doing, a bite could
happen. Threatening behavior is expressed by barking, growling, staring, showing teeth, lunging, snapping, and inhibited bites. The last choice a dog can make when it is threatened or challenged is to act aggressively.
What is aggressive behavior?
Aggressive behavior has the intent to do harm to another. Animal behaviorists generally discriminate two kinds of aggressive behaviors, offensive and defensive. Offensive aggression is expressed by lunging, chasing, and moving toward the opponent. The dog’s body postures make him appear larger and more intimidating by standing up tall with a stiff body,orienting towards the opponent and raising the hair on the back. His tail
is straight up in a vertical line and may be wagging slowly. The dog’s ears are up and forward or pricked forward. There is direct eye contact or staring, teeth are bared and he may be barking and/or growling. Defensive aggression is when the dog is protective or fearful. He may hold his position or move away. His body is crouched, the hair on his back may be raised, and he is usually not directly oriented toward the opponent. His tail
is usually down, ears pinned back and he may look away from his opponent, or alternate between staring and avoidance of eye contact. The dog’s teeth may be bared and he may be growling, barking or whining and whimpering. Ambivalent behavior is when the dog has mixed motivations, and displays both offensive and defensive behaviors such as staring with ears flattened or crouched body posture and lunging. When the dog has not
yet decided what to do, he may engage in displacement behaviors such as licking, yawning, scratching, and/or sneezing.
What are the different types of aggressive behavior?
Dominance Aggression is motivated by a challenge to the dog’s social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group. If the dog perceives one of his family members or other dogs have challenged him, he may threaten or attack. Challenges may occur over a preferred resting spot, food or toys. Even hugging or reaching over the dog may cause the dog to respond aggressively. Dominance aggression is the reasons for fighting between family dogs. Sometimes one dog is bullying the other dog by following it around and instigating fights even though the other dog is being submissive and trying to avoid confrontation.
Dominance aggression is most commonly seen in males between the ages of 18-36 months. It is an offensive type of aggression.
Possessive Aggression is when the dog is defending a valuable
object such as a bone, a toy, or a favored sleeping place such as a couch. Possessive aggression may have offensive or defensive components. Sometimes dominance and possessive aggression will overlap.
Territorial Aggression is when the dog is attempting to defend his perceived property, the house, the yard or even a regularly walked path. The dog may be so motivated to get at the intruder that he jumps fences or goes through windows and doors. The owner may or may not be present. Territorial aggression has mostly offensive components but may have defensive components as well.
Protective Aggression is when the dog is attempting to protect you or himself from a real or a perceived threat such as a stranger or another dog. It has mostly offensive components. Possessive, territorial and protective aggression are similar forms of aggression and may overlap each other.
Pain induced aggression is a defensive reaction in response to pain or discomfort when handled in certain ways or from a medical problem or physical injury.
Fear aggression is a defensive type of aggression. The dog
is afraid of unfamiliar people and/or animals or has had a less than pleasant experience, lack socialization or is genetically predisposed to fearful behavior. The dog tries to leave
by escaping (backing up, jumping) or tries to hide (under tables, chairs, behind owner) and may attack if he feels he cannot get away from the thing scaring him. He may also attack when the threat is retreating from him. The fearful dog tries to make himself look small by crouching or ducking his head. He may freeze or quiver, his ears are back, tail tucked and his eyes are dilated and the whites of his eyes show.
Inter-male/inter-female aggression is offensively motivated and occurs when the dogs are competing over a resource such as mates, food, or space. This is just another name for dominance, possessive, territorial or protective aggression to other dogs.
Maternal aggression is when the female perceives her offspring are threatened and can be offensive or defensive.
Redirected aggression can be offensively or defensively motivated and occurs when the primary target of aggression is inaccessible. Redirected aggression generally arises out of another form of aggression. For example, two family dogs may attack each other when they can’t get to a dog outside their fence or a dog may attack another dog if his owner has just punished him.
Idiopathic aggression is severe aggressive behavior that appears to be unprovoked, and is unpredictable and uncontrolled. It could be a result of a medical condition or be connected with dominance aggression.
Play aggression is oftenseen in puppies and young dogs and there is no intent to do harm. Although, grabbing,
nipping and biting may result in injury to people or damage to clothing. Play aggression has many of the same behaviors seen in predatory behavior such as stalking, chasing,
pouncing, shaking, and biting. However, the goal of predatory behavior is to obtain food. Play behavior may be a combination of one or more of the above types of aggression.
Why do some dogs become aggressive?
The causes of aggression are poorly understood but it is known that genetic predispositions, hormones, biological influences such as age, sex, reproductive status (intact vs. spayed/neutered), and overall health affect aggressive behavior. Genetic
predispositions may lead some dogs to have a low bite threshold and a high tolerance for pain. Some dogs may have had unpleasant or inadequate experiences as puppies or later
in life. A dog learns what works to make unpleasant things go away. Barking at the delivery person makes him go away; growling at the stranger who is reaching to pet him
makes the stranger back off. Aggression can increase when it works for the dog.
What to do
Your first responsibility is to protect people and other dogs from an aggressive dog. Keep an aggressive dog separated from others or muzzle him when he must be aroundothers. Consult your veterinarian. The aggressive behavior could have medical causes. In some cases, medications prescribed by your veterinarian may be helpful. You may be able to manage aggression problems by changing the environment or your dog’s
activities. For example, if your dog is aggressive around his food, feeding him away from others will prevent the aggression. Management doesn’t resolve aggression problems.
Behavior modification can be helpful in many cases, but it must be done carefully or it can make the problem worse. You will probably need the help of an experienced,qualified behavior consultant to help you work with the problem. Not all aggression problems can be managed or resolved. In severe cases or cases where others cannot be protected, euthanasia of the dog should be considered. Contact your Sit Means Sit Trainer so that we can help your dog to overcome this problem.
What not to do
Don’t ignore threatening or aggressive behavior. Aggression problems rarely get better on their own. Aggressive dogs can be dangerous. Don’t punish aggressive behavior, unless it is part of a behavior modification plan directed by a qualified behavior
consultant. Punishment usually makes aggression worse. Aggressive behavior is not due to a lack of obedience training. Obedience training by itself will not help.
(As written by Animal Behavior Associates, Inc)
Separation Anxiety
Few things cause more distress in a dog and its owner than Separation Anxiety. The dog can become destructive, vocalizes loudly, soils in the house and is some cases will even defecate on the owners bed. The behavior may not be as bad as this. The dog may only pant, or pace alot. All is not lost- properly diagnosing and treating the problem is your first step.
First we have to determine if the behavior is from Separation Anxiety or Boredom. Separation Anxiety while used as a “catch all” to label many problems has two keys elements. The first is separation from the owner and the second is Anxiety or fear. The following are some clues that the dog has separation anxiety and not something else. First, the type of behavior initiates when the dog perceives that he is about to be left alone. Second, the pet has formed a “hyperattachment” to the owner. This is evident when the dog follows you from room to room and/or constantly needs to be held. Thirdly, the destructive behavior is mostly directed to barriers such as doors or windows. Most likely the location the pet last saw its owner as it wants to be near him. Vocalization during this period of anxiety is usually high pitched and in repeated yips. This type of vocalization is akin to a young puppies distress call. Lastly, the behavior occurs within the first 30 minutes.
There is a treatment for this behavior, but it may take a great deal of time and patience.
Discourage Hyperattachment
You must resist the temptation to continually pet a dog with this condition, especially when the dog initiates the contact. Those dog owners that continually dote on their dog for little to no reason, may need to re-evaluate their relationship with their dog.
Keep the dog from laying in close proximity to you. Keep barriers up between you and the dog. This forces the dog to settle down away from you and you should then calmly praise the dog when he does settle down away from you. Start a process of moving the dog further and further away from you if he sleeps in bed with you.
No one person in the house (in homes with multiple people) should be the sole provider of food, attention, walks etc. Break up these activities between different people.
Encourage the dog to play by himself by using special toys like a Kong that is filled with a food reward.
Relaxation During Separation
Attempt to create a more positive environment for the dog while you are out. Provide a special toy (i.e. nylabone soaked in broth) that the dog gets as you leave, but you take back when you come back. Check into obtaining a D.A.P (dog appeasement phermone) that is a plug-in scent releasing device. This is an engineered scent made to imitate the scent given by a mother to tell her puppies that everything is okay. Also, leave on a TV or radio. This will not fool the dog into believing that someone is home. This is meant to recreate the environment that we relax in, it would be like a conditioned cue. We relax here, so you should also.
Desensitization To Separation
We usually have certain rituals we do that indicate to the dog that something is about to happen. Pick up a leash and the dogs knows that he is about to go for a walk. With this in mind we need to desensitize the dog to our leaving. At random times, go through the ritual you do before you leave the house. We want the dog to say to himself “this used to mean that mommy/daddy is going out, but I guess not anymore” Before you leave, start to ignore the dog so that when you leave it is not dramatic. Simply say “See you soon” and leave. Start to actually leave the house, but only remain away for a few moments to begin with. Slowly lengthen the time you are outside. When you return, ignore the dog for a few minutes before turning your attention to him. Another exercise to try is to walk around the house and shut the door of various rooms behind you if the dog follows. Work the timing of this separation from the dog as above. Teach the dog a “place” command and have him stay there for longer and longer periods of time.
Important Points
Never make your return home something the dog dreds. If you come home and the dog destroyed the house, greet the dog warmly anyway. If someone must be blamed- blame yourself. The dog will not understand it if you yell at him for the mess. He will only learn to dred you coming home.
Consider crate training your dog. Crates should not be seen by the dog as punishment, but a safe haven to go to.
Consider having the dog checked for any medical issues.
Separation anxiety may have started due to moving to a new home, the loss of a loved one through death, divorce, or going away to school to name a few examples. Separation Anxiety may also be the result of early separation from the mother (bitch) or deprivation of attachment early in life (dogs that came from shelters, pets stores)
Train your dog with these methods even if he does not currently display Separation Anxiety. The reason is that the dog may not have yet been exposed to your being away. Allow the dog to be prepared for that vacation, unplanned hospital stay etc.
Still need help?, contact your local Sit Means Sit trainer and we will help you and your dog recover from this problem.
The importance of socializing your dog
Few people understand what proper socialization is, and how critical it is to reducing dog bites.
Proper socialization- the act of teaching the dog to not react by de-sensitizing him to those things he will encounter in daily life.
The positive exposure of the puppy to many situations and environments that the puppy may encounter.
All exposure needs to be introduced at the dog’s pace in order for them to be a positive experience and inhibit any negative reaction.
Another term for socialization is de-sensitization. Unsocialized dogs over react to many common things.
The de-sensitization is done by exposing the dog to the environment in small increments and by helping the dog make positive associations to the things we are de-sensitizing him to. It is important not to overwhelm the dog by over-exposing him to new things. This may cause the dog to be sensitized. By forcing or overwhelming the dog, we cause him to make a negative association to things in the environment and cause him to make a negative association to things in the environment and cause the dog to become more fearful and /or aggressive.
The unsocialized dog:
More apt to bite, be banished to back yard, taken to the pound or euthanized.
Will tend to be shy and over-reactive. May flinch, freeze or withdraw when petted.
May startle easy by things considered routine like children squealing, cars, bikes, etc.
May become fearfully aggressive when people do things like: make direct eye contact, make direct frontal approaches, smile, make movements over the dog head, neck, or shoulder area when trying to pet the dog. The unsocialized dog mistakes these behaviors as they are similar to some very threatening canine behaviors.
The optimum time to socialize a dog is before he is 5 months old.
After 5 months, socialization occurs at a slower rate.
Solving problems before they occur by selecting the most appropriate dog for your family.
One of the best ways of avoiding problems associated with owing a dog, aside from training, is selecting a dog that most closely fits into your lifestyle. Do some research into the various breeds so that you can make an informed decision. That cute puppy may grow up and be a dog that was not what you expected.
There are seven breed types :Sporting, Working, Herding, Terrier, NonSporting, Hound &Toys
Sporting: Brittany Spaniel, German Wire-haired Pointer, Curly-coated Retriever, Golden Retriever, English Setter,Irish Setter
Clumber Spaniel, English Springer Spaniel, Irish Water Spaniel, Vizsla, Wire-haired Pointing Griffon,German Short-haired Pointer
Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Flat-coated Retriever, Labrador Retriever, Gordon Setter, American Water Spaniel, Cocker Spaniel
Field Spaniel, Sussex Spaniel,Weimaraner
Common Characteristics:
High distractibility- may make it difficult for them to achieve focused attention during exercises.
Other dogs and group classes may tend to distract.
Spaniels and Setters may be overly sensitive. May be easy to “correct”, but may not always be suited to live with small children.
Retrievers may be overly insensitive. May be more difficult to “correct”, but better suited to live with small children.
High need for daily exercise- Need running exercise. Behavioral problems may occur (i.e. barking, digging, destructiveness, pacing, or fence running) if not exercised enough.
Working: Akita, Bernese Mountain Dog, Bullmastiff, Giant Schnauzer, Great Pyrenees, Kuvasz, Newfoundland, Rottweiler, Samoyed, Standard Schnauzer, Alaskan Malamute, Boxer,
Doberman Pinscher, Great Dane, Komodor, Mastiff,
Portuguese Water Dog, Saint Bernard, Siberian Husky
Common Characteristics:
Bred to be dominant and independent.
May try to dominate their owner if not shown strong, fair, consistent leadership.
May become overly territorial or very possessive over objects.
May be difficult to handle for inexperienced owners to handle.
Due to stubbornness in training, be prepared to focus on positive reinforcement techniques. Utilize “No free lunch” policy.
May be very insensitive and difficult to correct. May react to corrections by becoming aggressive or shutting down.
Owners must be seen as strong, fair, and consistent leaders.
Herding:Australian Cattle Dog, Belgian Malinois, Belgian Tervuren
Briard, German Shepard Dog, Puli, Cardigan Welsh Corgi,
Australian Shepard, Bearded Collie, Belgian Sheepdog
Bouvier des Flanders, Collie, Old English Sheepdog
Shetland Sheepdog, Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Common Characteristics:
High prey/chase drive. Makes it difficult for these dogs to become de-sensitized to the activities of small children and moving objects (i.e. bicycles, skates)
Herding Behavior. Likely to bark and nip when excited.
High need for mental activity. May develop undesirable behaviors like barking, tail chasing, animal chasing, child chasing, pacing, fence running digging or aggression if not given enough “work” like fetch, obedience and tricks.
High need for daily exercise. May develop behavioral problems without sufficient exercise.
Herding breeds are typically easy to train since they were bred specifically to work closely with humans.
May become overly attached to owners and develop separation anxiety if not taught to accept being apart from their owners at an early age. Crate training is highly recommended.
Terrier: Airedale Terrier, Australian Terrier, Border Terrier
Cairn Terrier, Smooth Fox Terrier, Irish Terrier, Lakeland Terrier
Miniature Bull Terrier, Norfolk Terrier, Scottish Terrier,Skye Terrier
Staffordshire Bull Terrier,West Highland White Terrier
American Staffordshire Terrier,Bedlington Terrier
Bull Terrier, Dandie Dinmont Terrier, Wire Fox Terrier
Kerry Blue Terrier, Manchester Terrier,Miniature Terrier
Norwich Terrier, Sealyham Terrier, Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
Welsh Terrier
Common Characteristics:
Active and tenacious as they were bred to hunt vermin and not back down if attacked. May be difficult for inexperienced owners. Could respond aggressively to “normal” corrections.
May be viewed as destructive or “hyper” when not given enough exercise or acceptable work like fetch or obedience.Fast dogs that may leave their owner behind.
Digging and hunting are their natural instincts unless their energy is properly channeled. May be dog/animal-aggressive.
Non-Sporting: Bichon Frise, Bulldog, Chow Chow, Finnish Spitz
Keeshond, Poodle, Tibetan Spaniel, Boston Terrier, Chinese Shar-Pei, Dalmatian, French Bulldog, Lhasa Apso, Schipperke
Tibetan Terrier
Common Characteristics:
This group has less in common with each other and individual dogs have characteristics of other groups.
Working Group- Keeshond and Schipperke
Sporting Group- Finnish Spitz, Poodle and Dalmatian.
Bred to guard- Chow Chow, Shar-Pei and Llasa Apso.
Companion/Gifts- Bichon Frise, Tibetan Spaniel, Boston Terrier, French Bulldog and Tibetan Terrier.
Some of these dogs were not bred to “work”, they may be difficult to motivate for training. “No free lunch” policy may increase motivation to “work” by obeying obedience commands.
Because they were not bred to “work” may make them better pets. Less drive to hunt and chase can make them easier for the inexperienced dog owner to handle.
Hounds: Afghan, Basset, Black and Tan Coonhound
American Fox Hound, Greyhound, Ibizan Hound
Norwegian Elkhound, Petite Basset Griffon Vendeen
Rhodesian Ridgeback, Scottish Deerhound, Basenji, Beagle
Bloodhound, Dachshund, English Fox Hound, Harrier
Irish Wolf Hound, Otterhound, Pharoh Hound, Saluki, Whippet
Common Characteristics:
Easily distracted by scent and sometimes movement (sight hounds). Be prepared to increase dog’s motivation to focus on you (“No Free Lunch”). Being allowed to sniff around could be used as a reward.
Bred to work independently of humans. May have less pack drive or desire to “please’ their owners. Use less repetitions when practicing obedience as these dogs will quickly become bored. Rewards should be very valuable/highlight of the dog’s day.
Toy: Affenpinscher, Chihuahua, English Toy Spaniel
Japanese Chin, Toy Manchester Terrier, Papillon, Pomeranian
Pug, Silky Terrier, Brussels Griffon, Chinese Crested
Italian Greyhound, Maltese, Miniature Pinscher, Pekingese
Toy Poodle, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier
Common Characteristics:
Misbehavior is not always addressed due to size. May be viewed as surrogate children or “toys”. Owners send the wrong message which causes obedience training to be more difficult. Behavior not allowed for a large dog is accepted by these dogs.
Training can be difficult due to dog’s stature. Place dog on a table or chair.
Many of these dogs do not realize they are small and take on larger dogs to play or fight with.
These dogs have a delicate physiology and can easily break a leg by jumping off a bed or sofa.
It is important that you take the time to make an informed decision and not make an “impulse” buy based on that “cutesy” factor. Also, take advantage of the various shelters and rescue groups. They offer great dogs that truly deserve your love and attention.
Does your puppy nip at you?
Is the puppy engaging in friendly nipping and mouthing or serious nipping and mouthing.
Friendly nipping occurs during excitable greetings or during playtime with a puppy that is less than 5 months in age.
Puppies explore their environment by touching and tasting everything.
Puppy nipping is also a form of social play between puppies and dogs.
A small percentage of puppies and dogs engage in serious nipping as a way of saying “No, I don’t think so”.
This dog may be testing or even exerting his perceived dominance and or territoriality. This likely occurs in an environment where the expectations and consequences of his behavior is inconsistent. If this is the case, Leadership exercises are required. The relationship needs to be addressed before using any anti-nipping techniques
A problem with the use of the leash
Using a physical correction (i.e. leash) can be counter productive.
Case in point- the dog jumps up on people and you use a leash to correct him. The dog could develop a negative association. The dog may learn not to like people as it is a cue that something bad is going to happen. An oversimplification, yes, but something important to remember
Set the dog up for success
The idea is to provide the dog with every possible opportunity to learn that the new alternate behavior is more rewarding then the previous problem behavior.
The owner needs to supervise the dog and it’s environment so the dog is not able to perform the undesired behavior.
Since the “problem” behavior is rewarding, the dog will not get trained until the owner is consistent in managing the dog and it’s environment.
Key idea to remember during training
Focus on being proactive, (i.e. praising the dog whenever he performs any acceptable alternate behaviors), instead of reactive, (i.e. leash and collar corrections, yelling, etc)
Many dog owners ignore their dogs when they are behaving (i.e. lying quietly).
As the dog receives attention when he is engaging in inappropriate behavior, the dog figures out that “bad” behavior gets them attention.
For a social animal like a dog, negative attention is often viewed as better than no attention at all.
Be consistent in your training
Dogs are happier, confident and secure in an environment where the rules and exceptions are consistent.
Owners that teach a dog that a behavior is acceptable sometimes, and then gets angry at the dog for the behavior at other times will almost always have a difficult time eliminating the problem.
Consistency is crucial in treating behavior problems because the problems that we want to eliminate (jumping, chewing, digging etc) are self-rewarding behaviors for the dog.
The dog will not want to miss out on an opportunity, if given one, to partake in them.




